New to the Pinewood Derby? Don't worry—we've got you! If you're new to Scouting or looking for new car designs, read on to learn more about basic Pinewood Derby car shapes, which you can help your Cub Scout sketch and build before all the racing fun begins!
Pinewood Derby season is upon us! When I started actually thinking about it, one of the first questions in my mind was, “How do people choose a car shape?” I did a lot of research and realized (after I had decided to make up my shape, which turned out to be the Fish-shape) that there are so many free templates (and paid templates) online! But with so many car designs, how does one decide what car shape to use? To make your Pinewood Derby car-building experience much easier, we've put together a short list of essential car shapes you can customize using decals and paint to make your own!
The wedge is a classic and probably the easiest shape (besides keeping a block) to build your Pinewood Derby car. The Wedge is the foundation of many cool car designs, and it is designed to be aerodynamic and is a one-cut wonder.
2. Pinewood Derby Car Shape: The Arrow
The Arrow takes the Wedge to the next level. With a definite pointier front, the slim and cut-in sides lead to a flared back end. With so much of the wood cut out, the weight department leaves plenty of space to add weight back in exactly where it counts. Wondering where that is? Check out our Tips and Tricks blog!
This template has become quite popular – it employs the lower profile front and adds a bit more curving, making it look a little fish-like. Many people also add in a top fin to turn it into a shark! This shape also works as a base for Nascar-looking racecars.
Think classic cop car shape. It is a bit boxier, but this car never goes out of style. After all, who doesn’t love the Dukes of Hazzard look? Plus, this one is fun to paint. If you want to keep the shape but change the look, why not paint it with the old-school Dale Earnhardt Wrangler colors and #3?
5. Pinewood Derby Car Shape: The Semi
Now, science tells us that we want a lower-profile car at the front than at the back, but sometimes, you have to take one to have a cool-looking vehicle (or, in this case, a truck). You can also take a cool spin on the semi and hollow out the back end to make more of a pickup truck version! I mean, Joe Diffie knew all about that life when he wrote the “Pickup Man” song!
Shop Pinewood Derby Kits and More at ScoutShop.org
Whether you need a Pinewood Derby car Racing kit or are looking for paint, peel-n-stick decals, or glow-in-the-dark wheels, ScoutShop.org is your one-stop shop for all things Pinewood Derby!
It's okay to get creative with the look and design of your car. On the flip side of that, if your main goal is speed, you'll need to keep it simple. To go fast, it's all about aerodynamics, and the best shape is a simple wedge.
It's okay to get creative with the look and design of your car. On the flip side of that, if your main goal is speed, you'll need to keep it simple. To go fast, it's all about aerodynamics, and the best shape is a simple wedge.
Much has been written about the physics of pinewood derby cars, and this is one rare case in racing where heavy = fast. Aerodynamics have little effect in such a short race, but weight does and putting the weight at the back of the car will make your car faster on the flat of the track.
Remember, a rectangular car is not an aerodynamic design. The most basic aerodynamic design is a simple wedge. If you don't have time to design a complex car, a wedge will work just fine. Download a Pinewood Derby car template PDF to help you create your design.
Low-profile cars with rounded edges and fenders will most likely outperform other pinewood derby cars. Adding wings, sails or flags most often will decrease the car's performance by increasing air resistance.
Create a Pinewood Derby car that is reasonably aerodynamic
An aerodynamic Pinewood Derby car's design cuts down on drag caused by air. No need to get crazy here, but simply having a wedge-shaped Pinewood Derby car instead of the standard block out of the box will equal a 1.4-car advantage at the finish line.
Slide the axles and wheels onto the car and glue into place. Use an epoxy or nonresin glue, and make sure you don't get any on the surface of the axle where the wheel rides.
Bake the wooden block, usually at 250 degrees for two hours. This removes moisture, which allows you to apply weights when the block is finished. A heavier car is a faster car, but you can't go over that 5-ounce mark.
Use the high grit (1000) sandpaper to sand the edge of the wheel while spinning it with the drill. Do not over-sand; you want to sand just enough to remove the flashing. With modified wheels, you'll want to sand off any burs from the cutting process but don't round over the edge.
In most races, the maximum allowable weight of a pinewood derby car is five ounces. By meeting this maximum limit – while also strategically placing your weights at the rear of your vehicle – you will improve your momentum and increase the distance your car travels towards the finish line.
The Pinewood Derby rules limit the weight of each car to 5 ounces. So where should you place weights to make the car heavier (faster)? Most PWD experts believe a car is faster when the weight is predominately placed towards the rear of the car.
Get as close to the allowed maximum weight (typically 5.0 ounces or 141.75 grams) without going over. Get as much weight as possible, as far back in the body as possible, while remaining stable.
Applying too much lubricant will slow your car down. How to use: Put one drop of lubricant on an axle. Tip the axle so down and let the lube flow to the end of the axle.
Science says the heaviest part of your car should be about 1 inch in front of the rear axle. The idea is that the farther back the weight is, the more potential energy you have because your center of mass is higher up on the track.
Push until the wheel touches the car body. The base is designed to leave the proper gap between the wheel and body. 5. The axle will need to be glued if it slips easily into the car body.
If the weight is placed towards the back of the car, it has longer to "drop" (by several inches) than if the weight is placed towards the front of the car. This difference is highly significant in terms of race times. Therefore, weight should be concentrated towards the rear of the car.
You will easily add an additional 2-3 hours of build time. The only reason you should bend an axle is so that you can tune your car. If you plan on just slapping on the wheels and axles. DO NOT bend axles.
Introduction: My name is Frankie Dare, I am a funny, beautiful, proud, fair, pleasant, cheerful, enthusiastic person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.
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