By Sharon Arnot // February 28, 2003
Until just recently, my knowledge of leeks consisted of knowing that they were something similar to an onion, and that they always seemed to be in season because I always noticed them at the grocery store. Although they were readily available, I could never imagine what I would do with what I considered a very large onion. It was a mystery. As it turns out, there are plenty of uses for leeks. Most notably, leeks are famous as an important ingredient for the cold potato soup called Vichyssoise. Surprisingly, Vichyssoise was created in America by French Chef Louis Diat, who was Chef at the Ritz Carlton Hotel in New York City. The inspiration for cold soup on a hot summer day came from childhood memories of putting cold milk in his hot soup to cool it enough to eat. Leeks were thought to be part of the diet of the builders of the Egyptian Pyramids, and Hippocrates prescribed leeks as a cure for nosebleeds. Thought to be native to Europe and the Mediterranean, leeks have been cultivated for over 3,000 years. In 640 AD, the Welsh wore leeks in their hats to distinguish themselves from the enemy in the war of the Welsh and the Saxons. Not only did the Welsh victory make the leek the national flower of Wales, it is still worn on hats with pride on March 1st known as St. David’s Day, to commemorate the victory of the war. There are six major varieties of leeks. They are Pinola, Titan, Arkansas, Derik, Palino and Unique. Leeks are grown in a sandy soil, which is constantly mounded up around the plant to allow a long white base to develop. The base should be at least one-half inch in diameter and slender. If the base begins to show a definite bulb shape, the leek is too mature. Leeks can also be too mature if a seed stalk can be felt in the center of the leek. If a hard stalk can be felt when the leek is gently squeezed, choose another. Those with a seed stalk will have a woody center. Leeks that are in any way limp should be passed up as well. Because leeks have many layers and grow in large mounds of sandy soil, it is important that they are washed very thoroughly before use. The root end should be trimmed, as well as about 1/4 inch of the white base. Peel away any damaged or blemished outer leaves and trim the leaves so about two inches remain. Slice the leeks down the center and rinse under cold running water being careful to rinse the grit from each layer. The flavor of leeks is similar to onions although it is much more refined, subtle, and sweet. Leeks can be substituted for onions, but onions should never be substituted for leeks. The flavor of an onion is much too intense. Leeks should be cooked until tender but still slightly firm. Overcooking makes for a pile of slimy mush. Leeks are most popular as an ingredient in soup, but they also pair well with cheese, veal and chicken. Some herbs and spices that compliment leeks are parsley, sage, thyme, basil, chervil, lemon, and mustard. In addition to their great flavor, leeks are also a good source of dietary fiber, and contain large amounts of folic acid, calcium, potassium, and vitamin C. They have laxative, antiseptic, diuretic, and anti-arthritic properties and are easier to digest than regular onions. Leeks are somewhat fickle when it comes to storage. Other things in the refrigerator can easily absorb their odor so they should always be lightly wrapped in plastic first. They are best stored raw without being trimmed or washed. Raw leeks will last about one week in the refrigerator while cooked leeks should be used within one to two days. Leeks do not freeze well; they typically turn into mush and develop a bitter taste when frozen. Next time you visit the grocery store, pick up a bundle of leeks. They are always there and they really aren’t as mysterious as they seem.
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