Since the end of the last century, chocolate fudge has been a favorite American candy.
True to the spirit of its land of origin, fudge is a bold and simple confection, intensely sweet and virtually bursting with rich, dense chocolate flavor. Yet as much as we like it, it is not always easy to make. However, with careful attention to temperature and cooking methods, it is not hard to produce velvety and creamy chocolate fudge.
No one really knows the origin of fudge. Some say it was a Philadelphia candymaker who, upon undercooking a batch of caramel, accidentally invented fudge. Others claim that turn-of-the-century college girls from Vassar, Smith or Wellesley cooked up a concoction of sugar cream and probably chocolate over the gas lights hung from the ceilings of their dormitories. Most food historians agree, however, that the name derives from an old fashioned expression of frustration: ”Oh fudge!”-a term the most seasoned candymakers will use more than once while toiling to produce perfect fudge.
Not all fudge is flavored with chocolate, although chocolate fudge is the most popular. Other favorite flavors are vanilla, maple and peanut butter. And thrifty farm cooks, who hate to waste any leftover food, reportedly have made mashed potato fudge and a ground beef candy called ranch fudge.
FUDGE-MAKING GEAR
A straight-sided saucepan made of heavy gauge noncorrosive metal (such as anodized aluminum or stainless steel) sandwiched with an aluminum or copper core is the best pan to use when making fudge. A heavy gauge aluminum pan lined with stainless steel can be used successfully. A copper sugar pot is not a good idea-the chocolate will pick up an unpleasant taste from the metal.
Be sure that the pan is neither too large nor too small for the batch you are making. With a large pan, you will not be able to submerge the bulb of the candy thermometer adequately in the boiling fudge. With a small pan, the fudge mixture may have to be cooked too long before it reaches the right temperature, and you also run the risk of a messy and dangerous boilover.
Once the fudge is cooking, pay close attention to its temperature. An accurate candy thermometer is crucial here; the difference of one or two degrees will affect the final texture of the fudge significantly. Undercooked fudge does not set up properly and overcooked fudge is firm and dry.
Choose a thermometer with the mercury bulb and column mounted on a protective metal casing and fitted with a clip so that it can be attached to or propped against the side of the pan easily. Set the thermometer in the fudge mixture with the bulb deeply submerged. If the thermometer is not on a metal frame, make sure it does not touch the bottom of the pan. Be sure you can read the thermometer easily as the fudge cooks.
Before you begin, check the thermometer for accuracy by putting it in a pot of rapidly boiling water for one or two minutes. If it registers above or below 212 degrees adjust the recipe temperatures accordingly. For instance, if the thermometer reads 210 degrees, subtract two degrees from the recipe temperature; and if it reads 214 degrees, add two degrees to the recipe temperature.
When making fudge at a high altitude, the cooking time will be shorter than it would at sea level due to the more rapid evaporation of liquids. If sea level instructions are followed, the mixture will be too concentrated by the time the fudge reaches the given temperature in the recipe. To adjust the temperature to your altitude, deduct two degrees from the temperature required for every one thousand feet of altitude above sea level. For example, in the recipe that follows, if you live 5,000 feet above sea level, you would deduct 10 degrees from 234 degrees. The adjusted temperature for 5,000 feet above sea level would be 224 degrees. (Since Chicago is only 595 feet above sea level, local fudgemakers would deduct only one degree for an adjusted temperature of 233 degrees).
The stove can affect the fudge, too. If you have difficulty controlling the degree of heat with either an electric or a gas range, use a flame tamer to diffuse the heat.
Use a wooden spoon to stir the fudge. A metal spoon inserted into the hot syrup will conduct heat, causing the syrup to heat unevenly, making it difficult to dissolve the sugar crystals during the initial stage of fudge making.
The best way to cool fudge is on a marble slab. The marble allows the fudge to cool evenly and quickly but for those fudge lovers who do not have marble, a satisfactory substitute is a jelly roll pan set over a large wire rack-although the fudge will take twice as long to cool.
MAKING FUDGE
Fudge is the combination of a sugar syrup, enriched with cream and butter, and a flavoring-in this case chocolate. It is made by letting the sugar syrup heat to the soft ball stage and cool to lukewarm (110 degree)
before it is creamed so that it thickens and starts to lose its gloss. The final texture of the fudge depends on four things: the balance of the ingredients, the amount of evaporation during cooking, the correct cooling temperature and proper attention to beating and creaming the cooled syrup.
The following recipe for chocolate walnut fudge has rich chocolate flavor-as well it should considering it contains nearly three times as much chocolate as most other chocolate fudge recipes. Because of the amount of chocolate, the fudge is cooked to a lower temperature than other recipes. The finished fudge is attractively glossy and melts in the mouth with creamy smoothness. Its texture is just firm enough so that it can be cut into neat squres.
When you are making this chocolate walnut fudge, cook it to precisely 234 degrees (233 in Chicago)-which is the low end of the soft ball range of 234 degrees to 240 degrees. Even a degree or two higher will alter the final texture noticeably. When the syrup begins to boil, do not stir the fudge or agitate it in any way.
After the fudge reaches 233 degrees, take it from the heat and cool according to one of the three methods offered with the recipe: pot, jelly roll or marble slab. It is important that the syrup be allowed to cool with no disturbances. Movement will cause large sugar crystals to form if the fudge is stirred or worked before it cools to 110 degrees and the final texture will be coarse and grainy. The objective is to reform the sugar crystals in the smallest possible size for a fine texture.
FUDGE TIPS
– Sift the sugar to cut down on the time it takes it to dissolve. Be sure to dissolve the sugar completely-you should not be able to feel any grittyness when you rub the sides of the pan with a wooden spoon.
– Butter the sides of the pan before cooking the syrup. This will make it easier to wipe stray crystals from the sides of the pan before adding the chocolate and will help prevent crystals from forming during cooking.
– Make sure the chocolate is completely melted and blended into the hot syrup before bringing the mixture to a boil. Unmelted bits of chocolate can scorch and ruin the fudge.
– When the syrup reaches 234 degrees (233 in Chicago) immediately remove the thermometer and, if you are using the pot method, plunge it into hot water before putting it back in the cooling fudge.
– When creaming the fudge, do not stop to rest. If necessary, let someone else take over for you. Any interruption will make the fudge grainy.
– Let the finished fudge ”ripen” in an airtight container for one or two days if you can resist.
CHOCOLATE WALNUT FUDGE
16 pieces
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 1 to 1 hour 20 minutes
Cooling time: About 30 to 40 minutes
Creaming time: About 15 to 25 minutes
Setting time: 1 to 2 hours
3 cups sifted granulated sugar
1 1/4 cups half-and-half
1/3 cup light corn syrup
Pinch of salt
7 ounces unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 cups walnut halves, coarsely broken
1. Place a 10-inch-square piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil on a baking sheet. Butter an 8-inch-square portion in the center of the foil. Lightly butter the insides of an 8-inch-square flan form (see note) and set it on top of the buttered square on the foil. Alternately, line an 8-inch-square baking pan with foil so that the foil extends 2 inches beyond two opposite sides of the pan. Lightly butter the bottom and sides of the foil-lined pan.
2. Lightly butter the sides of a heavy non-corrosive 2-quart saucepan. Add the sugar, half and half, corn syrup, and salt. Stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, cook the mixture over medium low heat for 5 to 10 minutes, until the sugar crystals are completely dissolved. Do not let the mixture come to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat and using a damp towel, wipe the sides of the pan above the liquid to remove any dissolved sugar crystals. Add the chocolate and stir until completely smooth.
3. Return the pan to the heat and attach the thermometer so that it does not touch the bottom of the pan. (If using a thermometer that is mounted on a metal frame, do not worry about the base of the frame touching the bottom of the pan.) Bring the syrup to a gentle boil over medium-low heat. Cook the syrup without stirring for 1 hour to 1 hour and 20 minutes, until the thermometer registers the soft ball stage, 234 degrees (233 degrees in Chicago). If necessary, adjust the heat to low and use a flame tamer; the surface of the syrup must boil evenly and gently to avoid scorching the fudge. Carefully take the pan off the heat and remove the candy thermometer. Immediately wash the thermometer in hot water.
4. Refer to one of the following methods for cooling and creaming the fudge.
Note: An 8-inch-square flan form is a convenient alternative to a square baking pan. It can be used for making other types of candy, such as caramel and toffee or any candy that needs to be molded and set by before cutting. Flan forms are available for about $5 from Bridge Kitchenware Corp., 214 East 52d St., New York, N.Y. 100222; 212-688-4220.
POT METHOD
The pot method for cooling and creaming fudge is that described in most household cookbooks. It is more time-consuming than the following two methods. It takes patience and strong forearm. The advantage is that cooling and creaming are done in the same pot the syrup was cooked in. Allow 50 to 70 minutes for the fudge to cool and 25 to 35 minutes to cream the fudge.
1. Set the pot containing the hot fudge on a cooling rack. Prop one side of the pot on a folded dish towel so that the pot is tilted. Replace the thermometer in the fudge. The tilted pot will ensure that the mercury bulb of the thermometer is adequately covered. Distribute the butter cubes evenly over the top of the hot fudge. Cool the fudge for 50 to 70 minutes until the temperature registers 110 degrees on the candy thermometer and the bottom of the pot feels lukewarm to the touch. Do not disturb the fudge during the cooling process.
2. Using a wooden spoon, stir in the vanilla. Continue beating the fudge for 25 to 35 minutes, until the fudge starts to thicken and lose its shine. Stir in the walnuts. Scrape the fudge into the prepared pan and spread it evenly with a small metal spatula. Place the pan on a wire rack. Let the fudge set for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature until firm.
3. If using the square flan form, take a warm sharp knife and run it around the edge of the fudge to loosen it from the sides of the form. If using the baking pan, lift the fudge out of the pan, using the two ends of the aluminum foil as handles. Invert the fudge onto a small cutting board and carefully peel off the foil. Invert again onto a smooth cutting surface. Using a large knife, score the fudge, rinsing the knife with hot water and wiping dry in between each cut.
JELLY ROLL PAN
The cooling procedure in the jelly roll pan method is twice as fast as the preceding pot method. The hot fudge mixture is poured out onto a dampened jelly roll pan and cooled for 30 to 40 minutes. With this method it is not possible to use the candy thermometer when cooling down the fudge syrup. The fudge maker must rely on sense of touch. The fudge is then creamed with a flexible metal broad knife directly on the jelly roll pan. The creaming process will take 15 to 25 minutes.
1. Run a heavy 11 1/2-by-17 1/2-inch jelly roll pan under cold water. Invert the pan and shake off the excess moisture. Set the pan on top of a large wire rack.
2. Holding the saucepan containing the hot fudge close to the surface of the jelly roll pan, slowly pour the fudge into the pan. Do not scrape out the fudge that clings to the bottom and sides of the pan. Evenly distribute the butter cubes over the surface of the hot fudge. Cool the fudge for 30 to 40 minutes, until the bottom of the pan and the surface of the fudge feels lukewarm (110 degrees).
3. Sprinkle the vanilla over the surface of the fudge. Using a 5- or 6-inch-wide flexible metal broad knife (available at hardware stores), scrape the cooled fudge together and blend in the butter and vanilla by lifting and folding the fudge towards the center. When the butter and vanilla are completely incorporated, spread the fudge evenly across three-fourths of the length of the jelly roll pan. Scrape the fudge back together and lift and fold the edges toward the center. Continue this spreading, scraping, lifting and folding process for 15 to 25 minutes, until the fudge thickens and starts to lose its shine. Blend in the walnuts. Quickly scrape the fudge into the prepare form or pan and spread it evenly with a small metal spatula. Place the pan on a small wire rack. Let the fudge set for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature until firm.
4. If using the square flan form, take a warm sharp knife and run it around the edge of the fudge to loosen it from the sides of the form. If using the baking pan, lift the fudge out of the pan, using the two ends of the aluminum foil as handles. Invert the fudge onto a small cutting board and carefully peel off the foil. Invert again onto a smooth cutting surface. Using a large knife, score the fudge, rinsing the knife with hot water and wiping dry in between each cut.
MARBLE SLAB METHOD
The marble slab method is a traditional method preferred by many professional fudge makers. The temperature of the marble will be a few degrees cooler than the room temperature. It will absorb the heat from the hot fudge mixture quickly and evenly, resulting in a shorter cooling time than the two preceding methods. Allow 15 to 20 minutes for the fudge to cool and 10 to 20 minutes to cream the fudge.
1. Lightly sprinkle a marble slab with water and spread the water with your hand so that there is a thin film of water covering the surface. Hold the saucepan of hot fudge close to the surface of the marble and slowly pour the fudge onto the surface. Do not scrape out the fudge that clings to the bottom and sides of the pan. Evenly distribute the butter cubes over the top of the hot fudge. Cool the fudge for 15 to 20 minutes until the surface of the fudge feels lukewarm (110 degrees).
2. Sprinkle the vanilla over the surface of the fudge. Using a 5- or 6-inch-wide flexible metal broadknife (available at hardware stores), scrape the cooled fudge together and blend in the butter and vanilla by lifting and folding the fudge towards the center. When the butter and vanilla are completely incoprorated, spread the fudge out into a 12-inch rectangle. Scrape the fudge back together and lift and fold the edges of the fudge back into the center. Continue working the fudge in this manner for 10 to 20 minutes, until the fudge thickens and starts to lose its shine. Blend in the walnuts. Quickly scrape the fudge into the prepared form or pan and spread it evenly with a small metal spatula. Place the pan on a wire rack. Let the fudge set for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature until firm.
3. If using the square flan form, take a warm sharp knife and run it around the edge of the fudge to loosen it from the sides of the form. If using the baking pan, lift the fudge out of the pan, using the two ends of the aluminum foil as handles. Invert the fudge onto a small cutting board and carefully peel off the foil. Invert again onto a smooth cutting surface. Using a large knife, score the fudge, rinsing the knife with hot water and wiping dry in between each cut.
