In the annals of culinary history, there exists a dish that get little attention these days, but epitomizes the fusion of practicality and palatability: the Salisbury steak. The tale of Salisbury Steak is not merely one of culinary invention, but also a reflection of 19th-century societal changes and the quest for healthier living. I think Swanson frozen meals in the 1970’s and 1980’s, as well as my nemesis - food delivery services for restaurants - caused the bad reputation of this dish, and it’s time for a revival.
The origin of this dish can be traced back to the American Civil War era, a time marked by upheaval and the pursuit of scientific advancement, even within the culinary realm. The protagonist of our story is Dr. James Henry Salisbury, a physician and chemist with a keen interest in dietary studies, particularly concerning the digestive issues, including diarrhea, faced by soldiers during the war. He believed diarrhea could be cured with a diet of coffee and lean chopped beefsteak. Dr. Salisbury was an early advocate of a low-carbohydrate diet with a limit on fruits and vegetables, for improved health and saw potential in ground beef as an easily digestible source of protein. He believed a low-carb diet was good for weight loss. An idea since accepted by much of the mainstream.
He proposed that ground beef, onions and spices, shaped into patties and cooked to a point of minimal hardness, would be beneficial for convalescents and soldiers alike. His recommendation was not merely to consume beef but to pair it with plenty of water to aid in digestion and to avoid starchy and sugary foods, which he deemed detrimental to health.
The "Salisbury steak" thus emerged not as a culinary delicacy but as a health food, prescribed to aid digestion and provide nutrition. It was typically served with gravy to make the lean meat more palatable and was often accompanied by vegetables, adhering to Dr. Salisbury's dietary guidelines.
The dish gained popularity beyond the hospital wards and military encampments. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Salisbury steak had found its way into domestic cookbooks and American households. It became a staple of the American diet, evolving over time to include various seasonings and extenders like breadcrumbs, reflecting the fusion of cultural tastes and economic considerations, while going against some of Dr. Salisbury’s dietary beliefs.
The 20th century saw the Salisbury steak adapt to changing American lifestyles, notably with the rise of frozen foods in the post-World War II era. The Salisbury steak became a common feature in cheap and low grade TV dinners, symbolizing convenience and comfort, albeit straying from its healthful origins.
Today, the Salisbury steak holds a place in American culinary tradition, a testament to the interplay between diet, health, and culture. While it may no longer be hailed as a panacea, it endures as a nostalgic and satisfying dish, emblematic of the journey from 19th-century health food to 20th-century comfort food.
In my culinary explorations, I've come to appreciate the Salisbury steak not just for its savory flavor but for its rich historical context. It serves as a reminder of the ever-evolving nature of food and its integral role in reflecting and shaping societal trends. Whether served in a quaint diner or whipped up in a home kitchen, the Salisbury steak remains a humble yet historically rich dish, a flavorful morsel of American history on our plates. But if made with quality ingredients, and served with a flour free gravy (a mushroom gravy is common) and a side of mashed cauliflower, it can still be part of a healthy meat based, low carb, low-starch diet.
