THE MINIMALIST; Fat, in Ducks, Is Beautiful (Published 1999) (2024)

THE part of the duck that scares most people -- the thick layer of fat under the skin -- is actually its best feature, one that makes roast duck a nearly foolproof dish, absolutely suitable for a weeknight meal. The fat keeps the meat juicy even when it's well done -- a distinct advantage, because the breast is best medium rare, but the legs must be cooked through, or nearly so, to be palatable.

Duck is so difficult to roast badly that all experienced cooks seem to claim their procedure is the best. Having tried many methods in recent weeks, I can say that the results are all about the same. So I chose the one presented here, which is the easiest way to guarantee a succulent but beautifully browned bird.

The only method that works markedly better is much more of a production. First, you steam the duck on a rack over simmering water until it is nearly cooked, about 45 minutes. Then you chill it (for up to a day) and finally roast it on a rack in a roasting pan at 400 degrees for about 30 minutes, until the skin is good and crisp.

There are four challenges to roasting a duck by the simple method given here. The first is spattering. All that fat can make a mess of your oven. But the solution is simple: keep a thin layer of water in the roasting pan. The fat drips into it and stays there. (You'll need a rack to elevate the duck, but you should be using one for a crisp bird anyway.)

The second challenge is to achieve a uniformly brown color. I cheat a little bit here and brush the roasting duck with soy sauce, which works like a charm.

The third challenge lies in the carving; a duck is a little more complicated than a chicken. The best way is to cut on either side of the rib cage to remove the two breast halves, then cut the legs off the carcass. The rest is for picking.