What's That Mysterious Taste? Shiso Captivates Chefs (Published 1995) (2024)

SHISO, an herb long used in Japanese cooking, is starting to show up in restaurants of all kinds whose chefs are captivated by its strong flavor.

It has a mysterious, bright taste that reminds people of mint, basil, tarragon, cilantro, cinnamon, anise or the smell of a mountain meadow after a rainstorm.

And like cilantro, not everyone likes it.

"I find it overpowering," said Gray Kunz, the chef at Lespinasse, normally known for his boldness in using Asian flavors. "You have to get used to it."

Those who do like it use shiso as a garnish -- its purple leaves are especially attractive -- but seem intimidated by its distinctive flavor. A few, however, have begun to integrate it into their cooking.

"I like it a lot," said Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who prepares a shiso vinaigrette to dress a simple shrimp salad at his East Side restaurant, Jo Jo, and also includes it in a cold cucumber soup.

Alfred Portale, the chef at the Gotham Bar and Grill in Greenwich Village, uses it to season tuna tartar, to which it lends an intoxicating perfume. "It is not a versatile herb," he said, "but in certain settings it is just fantastic, and in the tuna it does exactly what I want it to do." And Tom Colicchio, the chef owner of the Gramercy Tavern, is using shiso to flavor lemon desserts.