Front camber adjustability options? (2024)

One option is an offset bushing ----> https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/p...rol-arm-front-bushings-camber-adjustable-2876

The other is longer and adjustable lower arms from Verkline ----> https://www.verkline.com/shop/seat/...8v-8vfl-tt-tts-ttrs-8s-golf-mk7-seat-leon-5f/

Or you could source a CSS hub/swivel that offsets the lower ball joint, but from the hub side.

lower control arms or bushing with offsets / CSS spindles / ball joint spacers will all aid in getting you additional -camber if you are trying to go with plates last.

as far as the OCD concerns... variances should be pretty minimal and should have enough play in the mounting bolts to keep them very close to even since you wont have the subframe mount adjustments.

looking at the racelines they are designed exactly like the ones on my air suspension... and yeah they def added some noticeable NVH, i think the ground control design would be better for nvh concerns since it still uses the stock style rubber spring pocket.
Evasive Motorsports | Performance Parts for the Driven: Ground Control Camber Caster Plates - Volkswagen MK7

efaily said:

I'm only driving on the street with my car, so don't really need maximal negative camber. I think I'd be fine with the negative camber provided by the Euro Sport camber kit and moderate lowering by springs. I had seen a few threads with alignment specs post subframe alignment kit install that weren't all that even between sides, so I was looking for adjustability for the sake of even alignment settings. Is there much play in the ball joint or upper strut mounting bolts? Those are the only ones that would impact camber after the subframe alignment kit install right? Slotting the strut mount holes in the unibody is an interesting idea, but how did you ensure you kept the slots straight? The Ground Control strut mounts sound like an interesting option if they don't add additional NVH, any first hand experience with those?

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That will get you to -1.9, which is fine for the street.

efaily said:

I'm only driving on the street with my car, so don't really need maximal negative camber. I think I'd be fine with the negative camber provided by the Euro Sport camber kit and moderate lowering by springs. I had seen a few threads with alignment specs post subframe alignment kit install that weren't all that even between sides, so I was looking for adjustability for the sake of even alignment settings. Is there much play in the ball joint or upper strut mounting bolts? Those are the only ones that would impact camber after the subframe alignment kit install right? Slotting the strut mount holes in the unibody is an interesting idea, but how did you ensure you kept the slots straight? The Ground Control strut mounts sound like an interesting option if they don't add additional NVH, any first hand experience with those?

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In all seriousness, you should just get over your OCD for exact alignment specs.

It’s hard enough to get a perfect alignment even when you have the ability to adjust, and a 0.1 difference will hardly matter anyway.

For a street only car, it doesn’t matter.

xXDavidCXx said:

In all seriousness, you should just get over your OCD for exact alignment specs.

It’s hard enough to get a perfect alignment even when you have the ability to adjust, and a 0.1 difference will hardly matter anyway.

For a street only car, it doesn’t matter.

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.1 doesn't really matter for a track car either...

efaily said:

The Ground Control strut mounts sound like an interesting option if they don't add additional NVH, any first hand experience with those?

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A few tenths of a degree of uneven camber won't be noticeable, especially for street driving.

That being said, I have the Ground Control camber plates. They add NVH. It's mainly road noise and a harsher impact on hard bumps. Driving in the car before and after, the difference is enough to be noticeable. However, if someone didn't have a direct before and after comparison, I don't think the after is enough to make someone think there's aftermarket suspension.

Dakaos said:

Whiteline has Roll Center Correcting Ball Joints that have an Adjustable + or - .5 degrees of camber. Here. (it is on pre-order though) I have a few of their products and I've been happy so far. Also, this seems like to be the least expensive option for some adjustability.

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Do those work on the MK7.5 GTI? I thought I read somewhere that the MK7.5 GTI had clearance issues with adjustable ball joints and the rotor?

DarkArrow said:

A few tenths of a degree of uneven camber won't be noticeable, especially for street driving.

That being said, I have the Ground Control camber plates. They add NVH. It's mainly road noise and a harsher impact on hard bumps. Driving in the car before and after, the difference is enough to be noticeable. However, if someone didn't have a direct before and after comparison, I don't think the after is enough to make someone think there's aftermarket suspension.

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Thanks for the feedback on the Ground Control camber plates' NVH. They looked like a possibility based on what I could see of the design, but not if they add noticeable NVH.

These are what I’m running on my car, but my setting are kinda extreme for a street car, lol

By thier nature they will adjust the roll center since the thickness of the metal essential make the ball joint taller in correlation to the spindle and LCA
https://dausfab.co.uk/products/vw-golf-mkv-cc-25mm-arm-extension-kit?variant=35390423367829

With these and camber plates I’m at -5 up front with the car at ride height... I’m about to slide the plates back out once I put my wider fenders on though to get me back to the -2 to 2.5 range though cause 1. Even with the toe at 0.05 in the tires wore the inside edge down to a unsafe point While the rest of the tire was still above 5/32s and 2. Cause at that much -camber straight line traction suffers quit a bit in a FWD a car.

If you're looking for a stock ride feel and around -2° of camber with lowering springs, I'd recommend the Eurosport kit. I'm happy with mine. I switched from Superpro fixed plates and the harshness really drove me to find another solution.

As far as getting even measurements left to right, there's slight adjustment from the top bolts holding the strut mount and at the ball joints. Otherwise, you'll need to shift your subframe or look at a subframe locking collar kit. Keep in mind, camber plates may also require you to drill the strut towering opening larger, as I had to do in order to adjust the rebound of Koni Yellows from the top. For others with stock or non-adjustable struts, this was necessary in order to correctly torque the top strut nut and/or to keep the top strut nut from making contact with the edge of the opening.

OP, you can put your OCD to work doing your own front toe alignment with toe plates. You'll want it to be perfect.

http://www.longacreracing.com/produ...0270&pagetitle=Toe-Plates-with-Magnets-(pair).

Toe will be your big challenge to get right and.keep right. Toe eats tires on cars with extra neg camber. Ask me how I know.

I like the recs here for whiteline arms ball joints. Caster/camber they give seems great for the street.